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About measuring when brewing beer
In this blog post, we will guide you through basic brewing measurement science. Ok, you probably don't have a lab in your garden shed, but with the right tools you can gather a lot of crucial information about your brew even as a hobby brewer. We would like to help you get started with some useful tips.
For a start, there are lots of things you can measure during and after brewing. You decide how accurately you want to chart all parameters - the more you know the better, of course - but in this text we focus on the most essential measurements: specific gravity (SG), acidity (pH), iodine test and alcohol measurement. We will also tell you which measuring instruments are ideal for these purposes.
Proceeding without measuring is a no go as far as we are concerned. The chances of something going wrong are high and, above all, it becomes impossible to identify the causes of those failures. Gut feeling? Save it for when drinking your delicious, home-brewed beer!
Specific gravity or SG
The SG simply indicates how many dissolved sugars are in your wort. This is important to determine how efficient the mashing process was and how much alcohol your beer will eventually contain. The higher the SG, the more sugars are present, meaning more alcohol can potentially be formed during fermentation.
Another important indication the SG gives you is that fermentation is complete when the SG remains stable for several days. For example, measure on day 14 and day 16. If the SG is the same on both days, it usually means the yeast has done its job and converted most of the sugars into alcohol. If the SG is still dropping, fermentation is still going on and you should wait before bottling. If you don't, fermentation may still continue in your bottle or keg, which can lead to excessive carbonation. In extreme cases, this can lead to exploding bottles.
Some yeasts will continue until around 1000 SG - which is almost the density of water, meaning that almost all sugars were converted - while most yeasts will leave some residual sugars that will give your beer flavour and mouthfeel.
Tip: With a Brewbrain Float, you collect real-time data from your fermentation vessel. Brewers use the Float to measure fermentation activity and temperature. The data can show when yeast activity has ceased, so you can bottle or keg your beer. But you can also use the temperature data to monitor your dryhopping process, and adjust if necessary. Handy, right?
Measuring:
Hydrometer: A simple, floating gauge that you place in a narrow measuring glass with wort or beer. The scale on the hydrometer indicates the SG. You read the value on the surface of the liquid. For a correct measurement, it is important to apply the temperature correction if the wort deviates from the standard temperature (20 °C) at which the hydrometer is calibrated. You can see that table below and it comes standard with our hydrometers.

Refractometer (digital or analogue): This measures the refractive index of light with a few drops of wort, which gives an indication of the SG. You read the values in the lens by looking at the light.
As a homebrewer, it is best to choose a refractometer during mashing or boiling, as it allows you to measure quickly and with little wort. Bear in mind that your measurement during and after fermentation will no longer be correct because of the alcohol present.
You can use a hydrometer both during brewing and during and after fermentation. It has the advantage that you do not have to apply a correction when alcohol has already been formed. The disadvantage is that you need more wort for a measurement. So you can use it perfectly after fermentation, when you want to measure the final SG.
In short, use a refractometer for quick measurements during brewing and a hydrometer for accurate measurements after fermentation.
Original SG (OG) and final SG (FG)
Original SG (also called original gravity or OG) is measured before fermentation starts. This gives an indication of the amount of fermentable sugars in the wort and helps predict how much alcohol can potentially be formed.
Final SG (also called final density or FG) is measured after fermentation. This indicates how many remaining sugars are left in the beer. A lower FG means that more sugars have been converted into alcohol.
The difference between OG and FG is used to calculate the alcohol percentage.
Tip: To determine the lowest possible FG of your beer, you can carry out a lab fermentation. You do this by setting aside a small amount of wort after cooling and pitching it with an excess of active yeast. Allow the wort to ferment at a high temperature, between 27 and 30°C. Shake the wort regularly to speed up fermentation. After about 48 hours, the wort will be fully fermented. Leave it for a few more hours to let the yeast settle and then measure the lowest possible FG with a hydrometer. This will give you an indication of the maximum amount of sugars that can be fermented.
SG, Brix or °Plato?
Whichever scale you choose, the theory remains the same. You will often find different scales on your hydrometer or refractometer.
Measuring acidity (pH)
The pH level is an important parameter in brewing, as it affects the action of the enzymes during the mashing process and plays a role in the flavour stability of the beer. Too high or too low a pH can interfere with the efficiency of the enzymes, resulting in suboptimal conversion of starch to sugars. This can slow down the brewing process or affect the flavour of your beer. It is therefore essential to keep a close eye on pH, especially during mashing.
There are several ways to measure pH, some more accurate than others. The most precise way is to use a pH pen. This is an electronic meter that measures the pH of the liquid instantaneously.
For hobby brewers looking for a quick and easy alternative, pH strips or litmus paper are a good option. They are less accurate than a pH pen, but give a workable indication of acidity.
During mashing, the ideal pH is between 5.2 and 5.6. After fermentation, beer usually has a pH of 4.0 to 4.5. So it is important to measure pH regularly, especially during the mashing process, to ensure optimal brewing results.
Fortunately, you can make some adjustments if necessary. In most cases, you will need to lower the pH. In that case, you can get started with the following products: Lactol (lactic acid), phosphoric acid, calcium sulphate, calcium chloride and sour malt. Let good brewing software be your guide in the dark.
Tip: If the pH is unexpectedly much lower (e.g. below 3.8), this may indicate a bacterial infection, such as an infection with Lactobacillus or Pediococcus. These lactic acid bacteria produce acid, which lowers the pH and can give the beer an undesirable sour taste.
Determining the alcohol percentage
The measuring instruments on the market today to determine the alcohol percentage are pricey, but fortunately you can calculate the percentage based on the original SG and the final SG. So you see, properly charting the SG values of your beer pays off!
Use the following formula:
(OG - FG) x 0.136 = Alcohol percentage
Do you still want to measure the alcohol content with a measuring instrument? Then you can work with the combination of Anton Paar's EasyDens (digital hydrometer) and SmartRef (digital refractometer).
Starch test with iodine
During mashing, starch molecules are broken down by enzymes so that they can be converted into fermentable sugars. A starch test with iodine is an effective way to check whether this has been fully achieved. It is important to know whether this conversion has fully taken place before you proceed to the next step, as unconverted starch can cause problems during fermentation.
Do this test before you mash out at 78 °C, otherwise your enzymes will be deactivated. To perform the iodine test, take a few drops of wort and apply it to a white surface, such as a plate or petri dish on a white sheet. Then add a drop of iodine solution to the wort. If the wort turns purple or black, it means there is still starch present in the wort and you need to continue mashing a little longer to fully convert the starch into sugars.
However, if the wort remains yellow or brown, the starch has been fully converted and you can move on to the next step. This simple test gives you quick assurance about the progress of the mashing process, so you can continue brewing with confidence.









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